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ESO Y4A · Physics and Chemistry
Energy · Waves: light and sound

The nature of waves

You throw a stone into a puddle and circles form that spread away from the point where it fell. If there is a leaf floating nearby, the leaf moves up and down, but it does not travel to the edge with the circle. That is a wave: something is moving, and it is neither the leaf nor the water.

Before you start, make sure you know: Speed (3rd ESO)
Before you start, make sure you know: Inverse proportionality (2nd ESO)

A wave transports energy, not matter

Animation of a wave on water moving to the right while a cork rises and falls on the dashed line, always staying on the surface of the wave and not moving horizontally. the cork only moves up and down the wave travels

Look at the red cork: the wave passes underneath it, but the cork does not move to the right. It only oscillates up and down while the disturbance continues on its way.

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A cork floats in the sea and a series of waves passes beneath it on their way to the shore. a) Does the cork travel with the waves to the beach, or does it simply move…

A cork floats in the sea and a series of waves passes beneath it on their way to the shore.

  1. a) Does the cork travel with the waves to the beach, or does it simply move up and down, remaining in almost the same spot?
  2. b) If the water does not move forward with the wave, what is it that actually reaches the shore?
Solve
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Classify each of these waves as mechanical (requires a material medium to propagate) or electromagnetic (can travel through a vacuum), and write out all six complete…

Classify each of these waves as mechanical (requires a material medium to propagate) or electromagnetic (can travel through a vacuum), and write out all six complete classifications:

  1. a) Sound in air.
  2. b) Sunlight.
  3. c) Sea waves.
  4. d) Radio waves.
  5. e) The wave travelling along a guitar string.
  6. f) X-rays.

Which of them could cross the space between the Earth and the Moon?

Solve

Mechanical and electromagnetic waves

Animation comparing a transverse wave on a rope, where a marked point moves up and down perpendicular to the direction of travel, with a longitudinal wave on a spring, where a compression travels to the right while a marked point oscillates left and right in place. transverse: vibrates perpendicular to the direction of travel longitudinal: compresses and stretches in the same direction
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Andrea shakes the end of a rope up and down and a wave moves along it. Afterwards, she pushes a coil of a stretched spring and a compression travels through the spring.…

Andrea shakes the end of a rope up and down and a wave moves along it. Afterwards, she pushes a coil of a stretched spring and a compression travels through the spring. The figure represents both waves.

rope v spring compression v
  1. a) Which of the two waves is transverse and which is longitudinal?
  2. b) Explain the difference by looking at how each point of the medium moves compared to the direction in which the wave travels.
  3. c) Sound causes air to oscillate in the same direction in which it travels: to which type of wave does it belong?
Solve
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The waves that a duckling generates while swimming in a pond travel at $1,2\ \text{m/s}$, and the duckling produces $0,6$ waves per second. a) What is the frequency of…

The waves that a duckling generates while swimming in a pond travel at $1,2\ \text{m/s}$, and the duckling produces $0,6$ waves per second.

  1. a) What is the frequency of the waves?
  2. b) Calculate their wavelength using $v = \lambda \cdot f$.
Solve

Amplitude, wavelength, period and frequency

If you shake a rope slowly you get broad, slow waves, but if you move your hand very fast the ripples bunch together and a great many pass every second: how can we measure and compare the rhythm and size of any wave with mathematical precision?

Move the sliders: increase the amplitude and you will see a "taller" wave; increase the frequency and you will see more crests passing the same point in the same time.

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At the beach, Aitana observes that the wave crests arrive separated by $4\ \text{m}$ from one another and that each crest rises $0,6\ \text{m}$ above the calm water…

At the beach, Aitana observes that the wave crests arrive separated by $4\ \text{m}$ from one another and that each crest rises $0,6\ \text{m}$ above the calm water level. The figure represents the waves she observes.

calm level λ = ? 4 m A = ? 0,6 m
  1. a) What is the wavelength $\lambda$?
  2. b) What is the amplitude $A$ of the waves?
Solve
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Sitting on a buoy, a swimmer counts that $15$ crests pass by in $30\ \text{s}$. a) Calculate the frequency $f$ of the waves in hertz. b) Explain in your own words what…

Sitting on a buoy, a swimmer counts that $15$ crests pass by in $30\ \text{s}$.

  1. a) Calculate the frequency $f$ of the waves in hertz.
  2. b) Explain in your own words what this frequency value means.
Solve
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$10$ crests pass a buoy in $4\ \text{s}$, and a photograph shows that two consecutive crests are separated by $0,6\ \text{m}$. a) Calculate the frequency of the waves.…

$10$ crests pass a buoy in $4\ \text{s}$, and a photograph shows that two consecutive crests are separated by $0,6\ \text{m}$.

  1. a) Calculate the frequency of the waves.
  2. b) Calculate their wave speed.
Solve

The speed of propagation: v = λ · f

When we measure waves in a pond we find that, depending on the rate of oscillation, the wavelength varies between $0{,}2\text{ m}$, $0{,}4\text{ m}$ and $0{,}8\text{ m}$, yet they all take exactly $2\text{ s}$ to cover a stretch of $1\text{ m}$: why does the speed of travel not change, and what rule relates the distance between crests to the frequency?

Comparison of two waves with the same speed of propagation: one with a low frequency and a long wavelength, and the other with a high frequency and a short wavelength. Wave 1 long λ low f Wave 2 short λ high f (same v)
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An anchored boat rocks $30$ times per minute due to the waves. a) Express its frequency in hertz. b) Calculate the period of the rocking.

An anchored boat rocks $30$ times per minute due to the waves.

  1. a) Express its frequency in hertz.
  2. b) Calculate the period of the rocking.
Solve
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The alternating current supplying domestic sockets changes direction with a period of $0,02\ \text{s}$. a) Calculate its frequency in hertz. b) How many complete cycles…

The alternating current supplying domestic sockets changes direction with a period of $0,02\ \text{s}$.

  1. a) Calculate its frequency in hertz.
  2. b) How many complete cycles occur in one minute?
Solve
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A tsunami in the open ocean travels at about $720\ \text{km/h}$ and its period is about $20\ \text{min}$. The figure shows a diagram of the tsunami wave in the open…

A tsunami in the open ocean travels at about $720\ \text{km/h}$ and its period is about $20\ \text{min}$. The figure shows a diagram of the tsunami wave in the open ocean.

λ = ? height: less than 1 m v = 720 km/h T = 20 min
  1. a) Express its speed in $\text{m/s}$.
  2. b) Express its period in seconds.
  3. c) Calculate its wavelength and express it in kilometres.
  4. d) In the open ocean, the height of the wave is less than $1\ \text{m}$, spread over that enormous wavelength: explain why ships barely notice the tsunami in the open sea even though it carries a gigantic amount of energy.
Solve
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Earthquakes emit P-waves (longitudinal) travelling at $6\ \text{km/s}$ and S-waves (transverse) travelling at $3\ \text{km/s}$. At a seismic station, the S-wave arrives…

Earthquakes emit P-waves (longitudinal) travelling at $6\ \text{km/s}$ and S-waves (transverse) travelling at $3\ \text{km/s}$. At a seismic station, the S-wave arrives $50\ \text{s}$ after the P-wave. The diagram shows the focus of the earthquake and the station.

focus station d = ? P-wave: 6 km/s S-wave: 3 km/s
  1. a) If the focus of the earthquake is at a distance $d$ from the station, write down the time taken for each wave to arrive.
  2. b) Set up the equation $t_S - t_P = 50$ and calculate the distance $d$ to the focus.
  3. c) Check the result by calculating the travel time of each wave.
Solve

Back to the beginning: The leaf does not travel to the shore because waves transport energy and not matter; the water and the leaf only oscillate up and down as the disturbance caused by the stone passes.

Summary

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